- Specs, Packaging and Accessories
- External Impressions
- Internal Impressions
- Installation Impressions
Starting from the sides, You can mount 3x 5.25″ drives (out of which one of them mounts a tray to mount a SSD drive) with 8x 3.5″ drives. Speaking of The mounting tray, as shown in the picture, you can not only install the 2.5″ SSD drive, but in its place it looks as if you can mount a 92mm fan as well. Not really sure why, since there isn’t any meshed vents on top of the case that can let the airflow to be pushed in or out- or through the HDD cage.
Shinobi Window by default comes with all the secure clips with 120mm fan on the front by default, with an option to mount one more fan for the fronts. I would have liked to see 2x 120mm fans on the front, especially since you don’t get good fans. Speaking of fans, the case uses Bitfenix “BFF-SCF-12025kk-RP”, these have “fluid Dynamic” Bearing which are known to run quiet at high speeds with lesser vibration. The fans come with 10 blades and rated 52CFM @18dBa. These fans are very silent and you can feel they push a lot of air. These are not one of those lower-than-average ball-bearing with not a really good quality bearings (and lubrication) fans that certain manufacturers for a certain types of case bundle. Its safe to say its one of those “high quality” fans and spending about 3 weeks gave me a good impression. I wished that since they didn’t provide a USB 3.0 connectors, it would have been fair enough if there were 2 fans on the front. I prefer non-LED fans with matte-finish blades. In my experience I can clean those easily compared to glossy transparent blades that LED fans come with, like my XLF-F1253 that I use with Thermaltake Big Typhoon.
I am not really a fan of CPU cut-outs, mostly because I always recommend people to install the processors on the socket properly, then heatsink (especially the after-market) and the memory sticks before mounting it on the case. Not really an issue with AMD sockets as pins are on the processors, but when it comes to Intel, I’ve seen a lot of people not able to mount the processor and the aftermarket heatsinks properly, thereby ending up unequal pressure between the heatsink and the processor- and hence you end up with the thermal paste being smudged all over the processor’s IHS. I am not saying CPU cut-out is a bad thing, but I would recommend being safe even if you think you can do it.
But that’s why I would like to get a hands-on a removable motherboard tray.
The case can accommodate ATX form factor motherboards with long cards as the space between the PCI slots till the HDD is about 12.5″ and depth from the motherboard tray till the side panel is 7″. The cable management holes are about 3″x 1″. Although they don’t have grommets, I feel that if a cable management is filled with cables turn out to be an obstacle. Too thick grommets require to push the cables to the other side once you have most of the cables through it- and grommets that are aren’t really thick have a habit of loosing grip on the motherboard panel, thereby grommets tend to come of its place. Maybe by max edges on the holes should be smooth enough- or just have a rubber ring around it. The re-routing hole next to the PSU mount is 3.5″x 1.5″ so extra space does help to re-route 24pin ATX cables, 4/6 pin cables for the board and graphic cards and also re-routing the un-used cables to the back of the motherboard panel.
There’s a screw to hold down the 2x 120mm fan filters. This is the first I am seeing anyone doing it but it makes more sense. You will need to remove the front panel and the top panel to remove/clean/install fans and the the front fan filters. There isn’t any fan filters on the top. The USB 2.0 and audio (Mic/Speaker) header are about 30″ long whereas front panel power/Reset/HDD Activity/power LED headers are 27″ long.