- Packaging and Specifications
- About the Case Packaging
- External Impressions Part 1
- External Impressions Part 2
- Internal Impressions Part 1
- Internal Impressions Part 2
- Complete Setup
You’re 2 phillips screws away from opening the strong bracket that holds the PCB in place. The cables are pretty long. USB 3.0 header cable is about 34″ long, Molex cable that provides dedicated power for both front fan’s LED lights are 25 inch, front panel headers are 32 inch in length.
The HD audio headers where a lot of motherboards unfortunately are place between the I/O ports and PCIe slots is a generous 34 inch long- long enough re-route them to the back of the motherboard tray, through the cut-out above the psu mount and connect them either to the audio header on the motherboard- or in my case- Asus Xonar DX.
Oh yeah, the entire top panel can be removed. All you need to do is remove 10 philips head screws (3 on each sides of the top- 2 screws of both sides securing the top panel on the rear panel, 4 each using 5.25 cage as a support. 2 screws that secures the front panel Power/Reset/USB 3.0/Firewire/toggle switch bracket and 2 more screws underneath it on the front panel frame of the case).
There’s nothing much to see here, except that you can remove the plastic tray by removing the screw inside and you can a a support on the top panel to hold the front panel cables so that they will not fall over the 5.25″ bays.
But one thing for sure, the top panel holds the front and the rear panel together. You remove the hard drive bays and that will explain why the framework feels flimsy after removing sidepanels, the front panel and the hard drive cage between the 5.25″ bays and the hard drive cage on the base.
You can dock any add-on cards upto 12″ with the hard drive cage but once you remove it you get about 5″ inch of extra space. As said on the first part of external impressions, if you are going to install anything more than 10.5″ dual slot GPU cards, best if there’s something to support the weight of longer cards.