- Introduction, Packaging, Specification and Closer Look
- Initial Impressions and comparison with FE
- Utility and Overclocking Impressions
- Test Bench and Testing Methodology
- Futuremark Benchmark
- OpenGL Benchmarks
- Middle Earth: Shadow of Mordor
- Rise of the Tomb Raider
- GPU Computation Benchmark
- Folding at Home and LuxMark OpenCL Benchmark
- Overclocking Performance Comparison
- Online Purchase Links
G1 Gaming GTX 1080 Design
The first impression- this card is incredibly light. It makes an impression that it is lighter than the Founders Edition, its GTX 980 and GTX 980Ti G1 Gaming cards. Gigabyte reduced the weight by having copper base reserved only for its GPU core and reducing from six to three 6mm copper heat pipes. The only LED on this graphic card is the logo and its fan stop indicator. The GPU shroud is a bit longer than its PCB, which shows three copper heat pipes.
The Gigabyte G1 Gaming GTX 1080 takes additional power from an 8 pin PCIe connector. The card also has an LED indicator which lights up solid if the PCIe power cable is disconnected and blinks if there is any abnormal power flow. If its all good, it will be off.
The GPU shroud is plastic while its backplate is metal. The only design is the orange highlights on its shroud. The design doesn’t really stand out like MSI and Zotac’s variant. Some people may light the limited LED presence with a down-to-Earth design. Some may not. This is more of a preference.
Gigabyte G1 Gaming GTX 1080 uses the same outputs like its Founders Edition. But the key difference is that all of its DisplayPorts are brought in together while its HDMI port is kept towards the end.
Comparison with the Founders Edition
The width of the graphic cards is the same, with a difference in its length. Obviously, the cooling system is the highlight of the G1 Gaming.
I did not take the images of the inner area since I ended up fixing the thermal pads on the chokes. While its VRAMs used thicker thermal pads, the chokes used very thin pads, enough that it was torn and misaligned from the inside at the time it was removed. While the previous G1 Gaming units had contact between the VRMs and the main heatsink’s surface, it was all copper. Not in this case. You’ll need to remove all the seven screws over its back plate.